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Tiki Loco

Crystal Beach is the ol' proverbial sleepy little coastal village nestled on The Bolivar Peninsula (named after Simon Bolivar) across the Houston Ship Channel from Galveston, Texas. To get to Galveston, we have to ride one of the ferries operated by the Texas Department of Highways. To get off the other end of the peninsula, we have a bridge over the Intracoastal Waterway connecting us to the Texas mainland. Over the years, many colorful people have taken up residence here...but few as 'in living color' as Kevin Kavanagh... or "Tiki Kevin" as he is fondly referred to.    Kevin has a local business called Tiki Loco where he carves tiki heads or tiki totems out of palm tree trunks and other types of trees. Kevin is quite creative and his artwork adorns many houses and businesses alike here on this little island. Kevin is a Viet Nam Era veteran of the United States Navy and is aided by his wife and son in his artistic venture. Tiki Loco is located on the main thoroughfare of the island; Hwy.87. On just about any day of the week you can drive by or stop and watch Kevin plying his trade of tiki art.     Artists and writers seem to gravitate to The Bolivar Peninsula due to its unique coastal allure and scenery. The local folks add a great deal to this artistic appeal. I can't help but recall chapters and passages from John Steinbeck's novel, "Cannery Row", when I think of all the out of ordinary people that have taken solace on this little emerald isle. Not to mention their cute nicknames... "Barefoot", "Crab Trap Ron", "Backup Birt", "Rockin' Robin"...and countless others... have all added their  technicolor personalities to the patchwork quilt of this community. I love it...it's almost like living in another country; with Houston but a scant sixty miles away.    Though I have included a few photographs of Tiki Kevin's art; I have done little justice to the vast body of artwork he has done over the years. One can hardly drive down one of our roads without passing some of his work. Tiki Loco has two websites;  tikiloco.webs.com and tikiloco.com Tiki Kevin's mobile phone number is: 409 750 0086... give him a shout for his original and customized artwork. Positively, Truman

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Stalking the Wild Indoor Bonsai Tree Revisited

In yesterday's blog, Stalking the Wild Indoor Bonsai Tree, I explained briefly how I collected indoor bonsai tree specimens out in the wilds of Mother Nature. In this blog I'll go deeper in detail on how to successfully gather and cultivate these bonsai. Basically we will be trying to duplicate the living conditions the specimen was thriving in and gradually introducing it into your indoor environment.    After finding our new bonsai candidate, we want to carefully dig it up with a shovel or sharp shooter and save as much of the root system as possible. Leave as much of the original soil around the roots to help minimize shock to the tree. I usually put a layer of spaghnum moss in the bottom of the pot with some coarse potting soil on top of that. I then dip the roots with original soil in a mixture of water (preferably rain water) and root growth hormone. Then place the collected bonsai in the pot and pack more coarse potting soil to set the tree at the desired angle. Wet the soil and add a little fertilizer; monitor the tree's progress as we get it re-established.    We will want to keep it somewhat shaded for a week or two to make sure it doesn't dehydrate and gradually introduce it into full sunlight. Once the new bonsai feels firmly rooted and appears to be hydrated and healthy, we can take it indoors to a window or patio door that gets 5-6 hours of direct sunlight. If there is no window with full sun, a high wattage fluorescent bulb with a timer set for 14-16 hours a day can be used. The fluorescent bulb should be about 6-8 inches above the top of the foliage. With plenty of tender, loving care your newly crafted indoor bonsai tree will flourish in its new home.

Stalking the Wild Indoor Bonsai Tree

I generally collect specimens for indoor bonsai trees from plant nurseries, bonsai nurseries, tree farms...and  sometimes even, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc...But when I get to feeling really creative and wanting something  new and different, I take a little road trip and venture out into the wilds. The beautiful thing about that is that  it can be as close as a block or two from my house, or hundreds of miles away.    I usually load up a shovel, sharp shooter, a couple 5 gallon buckets, a machete, some lunch and some drinking  water and head on out...to wherever my senses take me. Sometimes out into public forests, or the swamps and bayous  of Southeast Texas; looking for a miniature tree that started out as a poor little sapling growing at the base of a  larger tree. One that has scrapped and fought for every beam of sunlight, every drop of rain, and every morsel of  nourishment from Mother Earth. A precious little tree for me to take home and shape, cultivate, and nourish into an  indoor bonsai tree.    At first, I pot the new tree and water the soil with some root growth hormone to help get the root system  established. I usually leave them out on my potting table in the shade to let them get used to their new  environment. After they seem to have gotten over the shock of transplanting, I bring them in to a shelf on a window  sill to get their sunlight and monitor their progress. I make sure all of my indoor bonsai trees are watered and  fertilized regularly to keep them healthy. Especially when the central heating or air conditioning is in use. Positively Truman

Desert Rose Indoor Bonsai Tree

The Desert Rose Bonsai is a fast growing bonsai that is best suited as an indoor bonsai tree. This bonsai needs full sun from a window or patio door but does not like temperatures below 45 degrees F. It is a somewhat delicate plant that should have the moisture level of the potting medium monitored daily. The pH of the soil should be neutral; 6.6- 7.3 for best results.    The blossoms of the Desert Rose are very colorful pink and white flowers that bloom most of the year. The trunks grow thick and bulbous at the base and can get quite tall if not pruned in a timely manner. This brightly colored indoor bonsai tree will make a welcome addition to and liven up your home.

Nandina Indoor Bonsai Tree

Nandina have  interesting shapes and make cute indoor bonsai trees as well. Though they have been nicknamed Heavenly Bamboo and Sacred Bamboo, they actually are not bamboo at all. Originally from China and Japan, they are now used the world over as ornamental shrubs... and bonsai.    Nandina only need a lot of watering in the heat of the summer. On cooler days a daily drink of water is usually all they'll need. Fertilize them with some time release fertilizer about once a month and give them 4-6 hours of full sun and they'll do just fine. Nandina are slow growers... so give them plenty of patience and TLC for your indoor bonsai tree to grow and flourish. Positively, Truman

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Calamondin Indoor Bonsai Tree

This is a really neat indoor bonsai tree...a Calamondin Bonsai. The fruit of the calamondin looks a lot like cumquats or miniature oranges. The calamondin blooms almost all year long and has little white flowers along with the fruit. The fruit is used all over the world to flavor recipes and has a sour citrus taste; however, the skin tastes sweet. I have used calamondin fruit to make Sweet & Sour sauce which can be saved and frozen. Another interesting idea is to freeze them with a few small slits in the skin and use them for ice cubes that also flavor your drink! How cool is that?!    Though calamondin were originally from Asia, they were introduced to the United States in the early 1900's and are grown in mostly temperate climates. The fact that they are frost sensitive makes them an excellent choice for an indoor bonsai tree...maybe even a bonsai orchard... Positively, Truman

Sago Palm Indoor Bonsai Tree

A really interesting thing about palm trees is the many different shapes of the fronds, trunks, and fruits. A Sago Palm doesn't get very tall and the trunk slowly grows outward increasing more so in girth than in height. This makes the Sago Palm a good indoor bonsai tree whose size can be controlled by pruning the roots to fit a small pot. The pot in the photograph is 6" tall and 6" in diameter and will be adequate for this bonsai for several years.     Sago Palms propagate by growing 'pups' near the base of the trunk. When they have sufficiently developed, they can be removed from the "Mama" trunk and planted in their own pots... almost like giving birth...to your Sago Palm indoor bonsai tree family... Positively, Truman

Palm Indoor Bonsai Tree

Palm trees make good indoor bonsai tree specimens due to their hardy nature and ease of maintenance. Though palm trees can grow to be quite large, their size can be controlled by pruning the root system. Also, there are many varieties of palm trees that have a miniature or pygmy variant that doesn't grow as large. When potting a palm, you want to select a pot that is large enough to allow the root system to grow and anchor the tree into the growing medium. The above ground portion of the tree will not grow larger than its root system can support. In time, the trunk of the palm will thicken and grow taller until the plant has reached the extent of what the root system can maintain. Daily watering and fertilizing a couple of times a month should keep the palm bonsai beautiful and healthy...along with 4-5 hours of sunlight from a nearby window or patio door. I mist myindoor bonsai tree with a mild  liquid foliar fertilizer (7-9-5, 1/2 tsp. per gallon) and this helps to keep the foliage fresh and green. Last, but certainly not least... a healthy dose of TLC... something all living things want and need... Positively, Truman

Palm Indoor Bonsai Trees

Palm Indoor Bonsai Trees

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Date Palm Indoor Bonsai Tree

The Pygmy Date Palm is an excellent candidate for an indoor bonsai tree. It is a slow growing palm with feathery-type fronds. The diameter of the fronds is about 2 feet and the height of the palm can be controlled by pruning the roots.    These palms can do well in low light and care should be taken not to overwater them. They should be fertilized several times a month at the start of the growing season and cut back on the fertilizer and water in the winter. The Pygmy Date Palms can handle cold weather, but prefer to be indoor bonsai trees when Jack Frost comes whistlin'...    The fronds of this palm are miniature compared to other palms and make good decorations in floral arrangements or religious holidays like Christmas, Palm Sunday, and Easter. These indoor bonsai make great additions to sun rooms, dens, offices, and dining rooms.

Bougainvillea Indoor Bonsai Tree

I really love this time of year...the days are getting shorter, the weather is getting cooler, the flounder are beginning to run for deeper water, and my Bougainvillea indoor bonsai trees are blooming. I took my bonsai outside to give it a rinsing and put it up on the hand rail of my bay house to take a couple photos.    After my Bougainvillea bonsai have finished blooming, I will give them a light pruning. I usually take any pruned branches (vines) and remove the bracts up about 1/3 from the bottom and propagate them. I use some potting soil with a mixture of root growth hormone and fertilizer to get the roots growing. After the roots have firmly rooted themselves in the potting medium, I'll start to wire and train the new Bougainvillea and any new branches that have started.    With a little care and TLC, the new trees will make beautiful Bougainvillea indoor bonsai trees...with their little pink blooms...when the flounder begin to run.

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Willow Leaf Ficus

The Willow Leaf Ficus, or Ficus Mexicana, is another indoor bonsai tree that is both pleasing to the eye and easy to care for. Ficus do well with moderate watering and adapt readily to an indoor environment. I mist my Ficus bonsai several times a week with a mild foliar fertilizer. This helps the Ficus maintain a thick, green canopy of the slender willow-like leaves.    Ficus have a tendency to grow roots above the ground; which allows bonsai artists to place the Ficus on a rock or crystal. The young branches are easily shaped by wiring to a desired shape until the branches lignify and harden. The Willow Leaf Ficus is a wonderful indoor bonsai tree for amateurs and seasoned veterans alike! Happy bonsai-ing! Positively, Truman

Juniper Indoor Bonsai Tree

Another great bonsai for beginners is the Juniper indoor bonsai tree. The Juniper bonsai was my first bonsai approximately 28 years ago and  is still one of my favorites today. We all remember Mr. Myagi pruning his juniper bonsai and I'll bet that many people became bonsai enthusiasts from watching him! Though junipers are probably best suited as an outdoor bonsai, they can be easily grown indoors with a little extra TLC.    The photo shows one of my Juniper indoor bonsais on my computer desk at the window that it gets 5-7 hours a day of direct sunlight. I take  great care to keep my bonsai properly watered...not too much or too little, and make sure the pot has good drainage. I mist my Juniper bonsai a couple  times a day with a very mild foliar fertilizer to both feed and hydrate the foliage. When we have several overcast days, I have a florescent light fixture that I light the bonsai with for 14-16 hours a day.    Though my Juniper indoor bonsai tree is grown indoors, I do give it a  'time out' period from December through February. I place it out on my  covered porch to allow it to have a dormant period. In March, I unpot it to check out the root system to see if it is 'root bound' or has any other issues before I bring it back inside to my computer desk. I enjoy tending to my indoor bonsais and believe they are as therapeutic as they are aesthetically stimulating... Positively, Truman

Chinese Elm Bonsai

Occasionally people tell me about a bonsai tree they tried to grow a few years ago and usually ask me which bonsai I would recommend to a beginning gardener. Though I have several in mind, I prefer the Chinese Elm for a beginner's first indoor bonsai tree. For this bonsai specimen, the pros far outweigh the cons.    The Chinese Elm is a very hardy tree, both in and out of doors. As an outdoor bonsai, the tree will lose its leaves in the winter. As an indoor bonsai tree, it will keep its leaves and remain green throughout the winter and does not need a dormant period. This elm is resistant to most diseases including Dutch elm disease.     The soil of this bonsai should be kept moist but not soggy or over-watered. Make sure the pot has ample drainage and basic potting soil for best results. For fertilizer, one with a little extra nitrogen during the growing season will aid in extra growth and use less fertilizer in the winter months.    What I like most about the Chinese Elm is the ease of training and shaping the bonsai. When the tree is young, you can wire wrap the trunk and branches to begin gradually bending and shaping the tree to whatever style you would like. The trunk can slowly be bent into a twisted upright, cascade, or windswept shape...or, just let it grow upright like a normal, healthy elm would grow. The bonsai in the photo is an 8 year old small leaf Chinese Elm "shohin" bonsai whose trunk I trained into this interesting shape. This bonsai is 8" tall above the top of the pot and the pot is 4"x 5-1/2"...a rather small bonsai... but indeed, beautiful.    As far as the cons, I'm sure there may be some...but as of yet, I have not encountered any. I sincerely hope that many of you will find, as I have, that the Chinese Elm is truly a great indoor bonsai tree for all. Positively, Truman

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Indoor Bonsai Tree                       Foliar Fertilizer    Foliar fertilizers are a unique way to deliver nutrients to your indoor bonsai tree. Foliar fertilizers not only feed your bonsai through the foliage, but also by soaking into the bark. These fertilizers are generally mild to weak and sprayed in a light mist onto your bonsai. The foliar fertilizer I used on the Bougainvillea bonsai is a 7-9-5 ratio by Dyna-Gro and the recommended usage is 1/4 tsp per gallon for daily watering and 1/2 tsp per gallon to promote growth.    As you can see in the first photo of the Bougainvillea bonsai, the leaves were yellow and wilted and I wanted to bring some immediate attention to my little tree. At first, I misted and watered the bonsai  with the foliar fertilizer 2-3 times a day. After about a week, I cut back to misting and watering once a day...and 4 weeks later you can see a noticeable improvement in the appearance and vitality of my little tree.    Avoid over misting; the foliage should have a light mist on it rather than be dripping wet. The pot should have adequate drainage to avoid damaging and rotting the roots. Also, the prime time to mist your indoor bonsai tree is late in the evening. That's when the leaves of the bonsai and basically all plants open their pores to absorb the moisture of the dew falling. Since there is probably no dew falling in your house...a light misting of foliar fertilizer should 'dew'.  Happy Bonsai-ing! ~ Truman

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Elite Indoor Bonsai Tree

Texas Ebony    The Texas Ebony, once classified as Pithecellobium flexicaule, is now classified as Ebenopsis ebano, a legume. Texas Ebony is native to northern Mexico and south Texas and makes a great indoor bonsai tree due to its hardy constitution. The wood of the Texas Ebony is used to make furniture and wooden utensils and finishes to a smooth reddish-brown surface.    I think the Texas Ebony makes a really neatly shaped bonsai. The compound leaves are oval and add an elegant canopy to the zig-zagged branches. White and yellowish flowers adorn the tree in the summer and the seed pods contain several marble-sized seeds that have been rumored to have been used for a coffee substitute.    I have included two photos of my Texas Ebony bonsai...the photo of the bonsai on my drawing table illustrates how the leaves fold up at night or in low light conditions. The second photo displays the bonsai in its new pot and shows off the out of ordinary foliage. The hardiness and beauty of the Texas Ebony certainly make it an indoor bonsai tree for all seasons!  Positively, Truman

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Indoor Bonsai Tree

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August 29, 2010

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  I recently had my indoor bonsai trees out on my covered porch for a few days of pruning and I noticed I had fire ants in my bonsai...and I wasn't sure how many of them I had until I picked one of the pots up. Within 2 or 3 seconds, hundreds of fire ants were scurrying angrily out of every crack and crevice! I didn't know what to do at first...thought about it for a while. I didn't want to remove the dirt and have to re-pot them in the heat of the summer...and I didn't want to take a chance of poisoning my bonsai with a harsh pesticide. I certainly didn't want the ants to eat the roots! A flurry of ideas went through my mind and after considerable thought, I narrowed my order of battle down to 5 options...not knowing at the time, that I would end up using all 5 before the ants were totally annihilated! "Annihilated" is such a harsh word...and ordinarily I have a deep abiding respect for ants and bees. And, had the ants not set up camp in my bonsai, they would have never been in any danger from me...for the next 8 days, the ants proved to be a very formidable adversary.

   My first option was to fill my bathtub and place the pots of bonsai in the tub to try to drive them out. I placed the bonsai ( all 12 of them) in the tub and left them submerged for an hour. The ants were floating on the surface of the water and rafting up in small swarms. I took the bonsai out 1 at a time and rinsed them off in my kitchen sink with the spray hose to remove any ants that were clinging to the tree. It took a couple of hours to get them all off and I was satisfied that the ants were either gone or dead. When I awoke in the morning and went to check it out, not only were the ants still there, but they had rebuilt all their tunnels overnight! They either held their breath for an hour or had a new hatching of ants...or both!

   My second option was to over water my bonsai several times a day to try to convince the ants that they should move on to higher and dryer ground. After 3 days, the ants showed little sign of wanting to relocate.

   My third option was to use a well known ant bait to take back into the mound to kill the queen or queens. After 3 days and no noticeable decline of the ant population, I gave up on that idea. It probably would have eventually worked if I had given it more time...but it was almost as if I could hear the ants chewing on the roots of my bonsai and felt I should proceed on to the next "sure" thing!

   Option #4 was to use a liquid insecticide soap to soak the soil of the bonsai. At the end of the day, I couldn't see any positive results; so the next day I went to a nursery and bought a granulated insecticide that is formulated for ant mounds in flower beds. I sprinkled about 1/4 the amount of the granules recommended on the soil of the bonsai and then poured water gently into the pot to dissolve the insecticide. In the morning, the ants were dead or gone. I waited a day to make sure the ants were gone and then flushed to soil to remove the insecticide. I then installed high tech, no cost ant guards to prevent ants from climbing the legs of my potting table ever again! The ant guards consisted of 4 - 1 liter plastic bottles with the tops cut off and about 3 inches of water in them. I then placed each of the legs of my potting table inside one of the plastic jugs with water and made sure the legs were not touching the sides of the plastic jugs... 2 weeks later, we are still "ant free".

Truman Anderson

409 599 7112

honesttruman@yahoo.com

Indoor Bonsai Tree

Indoor Bonsai Tree

   There is some controversy about which bonsai grow better indoors and which ones grow better outdoors. Zelkova bonsai, serrisa bonsai, azalea bonsai, juniper bonsai, and ficus bonsai are generally considered to be more adaptable to indoor life than the more hardier bonsai types. Pine, cypress, oak, etc. are more suitable, generally speaking, to an outdoor environment. These assumptions are for the most part based on just standard daily care of the bonsai; whether indoor or outdoor. With the use of florescent grow lights, many bonsai considered to be outdoor bonsai can successfully be grown indoors.

   The small florescent lights that look like spiraled incandescent bulbs work great with flexible light fixtures that can be pointed at the bonsai. These can either be wall mounted or a desk top model and should be within 12 inches or so of the bonsai. These lights can either be turned on and off manually or connected to timers to insure the bonsai get 14-16 hours of light as well as 8-10 hours of darkness. Bonsai grown indoors should also be checked daily to make sure they are getting enough water and the water should have low mineral content like distilled or rainwater. Your bonsai should be fertilized lightly a couple times a month with a good liquid fertilizer to make sure they are getting the proper nutrition.

   I will be including some "how to" articles for building your own stands with oriental styled lanterns for your bonsai grow lights. These are very stylish and can either be free standing or wall mounted...and easily customized with your own personal touch! Happy bonsai-ing!

Truman Anderson

409 599 7112

honesttruman@yahoo.com

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Indoor Bonsai Tree

Welcome to the Elite Indoor Bonsai Tree site! I will be bringing you many interesting articles and how to FYI's about indoor bonsai. In time, I hope that many of you will grow to love communing with your bonsai through pruning, shaping, feeding, watering...and... simply watching them grow and mature! I look forward to meeting and communicating with like-minded bonsai enthusiasts and welcome any questions or comments you may have. Happy bonsai-ing!

Truman Anderson

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